Azelaic acid - What it is, How to use it, Benefits

This multi-functional skin care ingredient has gained notoriety for its impressive benefits and versatility. Unlike its acidic equivalents, azelaic acid encompasses a unique set of properties that can help address a variety of skin concerns, from acne to rosacea and even hyperpigmentation. This acid is found in creams, serums , and other skin care products. In this guide, you will discover all the information you need to understand what azelaic acid is and when it can be used.

What is Azelaic Acid?

Coming from grains like wheat, rye and barley, azelaic acid is a naturally occurring compound. However, the version used in skin care products is usually produced in the laboratory, ensuring stability and effectiveness. This powerful ingredient is not an exfoliant in the traditional sense; rather, it works by inhibiting the production of keratinocytes, which are cells that can lead to acne when they grow excessively.

Think of azelaic acid as your skin's best friend. It's milder than many other acids, making it suitable for those with sensitive skin, but it's strong enough to make a noticeable difference. Its uniqueness lies in its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antioxidant properties, which work in harmony to improve the overall health and appearance of your skin.

Benefits of Azelaic Acid for the Skin

When it comes to azelaic acid benefits, the list is impressively long. Known for fighting blemishes, it has the ability to reduce inflammation, which is great news if you're dealing with acne or rosacea. It helps to calm the skin and reduce redness, giving you a more even color over time.

Azelaic acid also targets the pigment-producing cells in your skin, meaning it can clear up hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and melasma. This makes it a valuable ally in achieving a more even skin tone. Moreover, its antioxidant properties help protect your skin from environmental damage such as pollution and UV rays, which can accelerate aging.

But that's not all; azelaic acid can also unclog pores and smooth the surface of your skin. It is effective in reducing the appearance of blackheads and whiteheads, giving you a smoother skin texture. Additionally, for those concerned about the signs of aging, azelaic acid is known to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, promoting a healthier skin barrier and improving your skin's elasticity.

How Azelaic Acid Works

You may be wondering how azelaic acid achieves these remarkable skin transformations. The answer lies in its distinctive action on the skin. Azelaic acid is known as a dicarboxylic acid; it works by inhibiting the proliferation of bacteria and normalizing the shedding of skin cells inside the follicle. This prevents the build-up of dead cells and bacteria that can lead to acne.

Its anti-inflammatory properties work by reducing the swelling and redness associated with various skin conditions. By calming inflammation, azelaic acid helps soothe irritated skin. It is also effective in reducing the production of melanin, which is the pigment that gives your skin its color. By doing this, it can help fade pigmentation spots and prevent new dark spots from forming.

What sets azelaic acid apart is its ability to be effective at different pH levels, unlike other acids that require a more acidic environment to function optimally. This versatility means that azelaic acid can be used alongside other skin care ingredients without losing its effectiveness, allowing for a more comprehensive skin care routine.

Azelaic Acid Compared to Other Skin Care Acids

In your quest for perfect skin, you've probably tried a lot of skin care acids, each one promising miraculous results. Below you will find a comparison of azelaic acid with other known skin care acids, information that will help you in your skin care choices.

Azelaic acid vs. Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its ability to penetrate oily skin

and unclog pores. While salicylic acid is great for oily and acne-prone skin, azelaic acid has the added benefit of being suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Azelaic acid also has other benefits that salicylic acid cannot achieve, such as reducing pigmentation spots, redness.

Azelaic acid vs. Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), is revered for its exfoliating properties.

It works by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing for easy exfoliation. Azelaic acid, on the other hand, is less exfoliating and focuses more on reducing inflammation and pigmentation. If you're looking for a gentle ingredient that targets a wider range of skin concerns, azelaic acid might be your best bet.

Azelaic acid vs. Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is not an exfoliant, but a moisturizing agent that attracts and retains moisture in the skin.

While hyaluronic acid is great for hydration, azelaic acid excels at treating acne, rosacea, and age spots. It is possible, and often beneficial, to use both in your skin care routine, as they serve different functions.

How to Incorporate Azelaic Acid into Your Skin Care Routine

Now that you are aware of the many benefits of azelaic acid, you probably want to incorporate it into your skin care routine. Doing this is pretty simple, but there are some guidelines to ensure you get all the benefits without irritating your skin.

Start by gradually introducing azelaic acid into your routine. You can start with a lower concentration and use it every other day, gradually increasing the daily use as your skin adapts. Azelaic acid can be found in various forms such as creams, gels, and serums. Depending on the other ingredients it is combined with, these products can be used at different times of the day.

If you apply it in the morning, it can help protect your skin from the effects of the environment throughout the day. If you use azelaic acid in the morning, apply after a broad-spectrum sunscreen to prevent any increase in sun sensitivity. At night, azelaic acid works well to repair and rejuvenate the skin while you sleep.

Choosing the Right Azelaic Acid Product for Your Skin Type

Selecting the right azelaic acid product is crucial to achieving the best results. If you have sensitive skin, look for products with lower concentrations of azelaic acid, around 10%. These formulas tend to be milder, but just as effective. For normal to oily skin, you can opt for higher concentrations, up to 20%, for stronger effects.

Texture matters too. Cream-based products are generally better for dry or sensitive skin because they provide extra hydration. Gels and serums, with their lighter consistency, are ideal for oily or combination skin as they absorb quickly without leaving a greasy, shiny skin feeling.

When buying products with azelaic acid, also consider the presence of complementary ingredients. Some products include soothing agents like allantoin or anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide, which can enhance the overall effectiveness of azelaic acid and provide additional benefits to your skin. 

Tips for Using Azelaic Acid Effectively

To get the best result with azelaic acid, it is important to keep a few tips in mind. Patience is key; skin care is not an overnight miracle, and it may take several weeks before you notice significant improvements. Consistent use is essential for long-term results.

Pay attention to the combination of products. Azelaic acid can be used alongside other skin care ingredients, but it's important to apply them in the right order. Use it after cleansing and toning, but before heavier creams and oils. This ensures effective penetration of the azelaic acid into the skin.

Finally, don't forget to monitor your skin's response. If you experience excessive dryness or irritation, reduce the frequency of application. It is always better to be cautious than to overwork the skin and cause discomfort.

Potential Side Effects and Precautions in Using Azelaic Acid

Although azelaic acid is generally well tolerated, there are potential side effects to be aware of. Some people may experience mild side effects such as itching, burning or stinging upon application. These sensations tend to disappear as the skin adapts to the product. If you notice more severe reactions, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.

Like any acid, azelaic acid can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun. Make sure you use a high SPF sunscreen daily to protect your skin from UV damage. It is also recommended that you avoid using azelaic acid if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, unless under the supervision of a healthcare professional.

Keep in mind that although azelaic acid is effective, it is not a miracle solution for everyone. It may not work for everyone, and it's important to have realistic expectations. Combining azelaic acid with a comprehensive skin care routine tailored to your specific needs will yield the best results.

Frequently Asked Questions

• Can azelaic acid be used every day?

Conclusion

Azelaic acid is a versatile and effective ingredient that can make a significant difference in your skin care routine. Whether you're fighting acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, or simply want a more even skin texture, azelaic acid is a gentle but powerful ally. By understanding how to choose the right product for your skin type and how to use it effectively, you can reap the many benefits this remarkable acid has to offer.

Remember, skin care is a personal journey and what works for one person may not work for another. Don't hesitate to consult a dermatologist to tailor your skin care routine to your unique needs. With the right approach, azelaic acid can help you achieve the clearer, brighter and healthier skin you desire.