Acne vulgaris is an inflammatory skin condition that occurs when pores become clogged with sebum and dead cells, and bacteria multiply inside them. Although many people associate it with adolescence, acne frequently affects women between the ages of 20 and 50 as well [1], including those who use make-up products, SPF, or follow Korean skincare trends.
You may have noticed that a few spots appear on your chin before your period. Or that after a stressful time, your skin becomes oilier and more reactive. Acne doesn't appear randomly. It reflects an internal and external imbalance, and if you understand the mechanism, you can adjust your routine to reduce breakouts and prevent dark spots or scarring.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not replace a dermatological consultation. If you're dealing with moderate or severe forms, speak with a specialist.
What is acne vulgaris and how do you recognise it?
Acne vulgaris affects the pilosebaceous unit — the hair follicle and its attached sebaceous gland. The gland produces sebum, a natural oil that protects the skin. The problem arises when sebum accumulates in excess and can no longer be efficiently expelled to the surface [2].
You can recognise it by:
- blackheads (open comedones) [3];
- whiteheads (closed comedones) [3];
- red, painful papules [3];
- pus-filled pustules [3];
- in more severe cases, deep nodules [3].
Lesions most commonly appear on the forehead, nose, and chin, but also on the back or chest, where sebaceous glands are more active. In most cases, acne progresses in episodes, with better and more difficult periods.
How does acne vulgaris develop? The mechanism explained simply
Four processes acting simultaneously lie at the root of acne.
1. Excess sebum. Androgen hormones stimulate the sebaceous glands. During phases such as the premenstrual period, pregnancy, or in cases of hormonal conditions, the skin produces more oil. Pores enlarge, and the skin's surface becomes shiny.
2. Dead cell build-up. The skin constantly renews itself. Sometimes, dead cells don't shed evenly and block the pore opening. This is how comedones form.
3. Proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes. This bacterium naturally lives on the skin. In a blocked pore rich in sebum, it multiplies and produces irritating substances.
4. Inflammation. Your immune system reacts to the bacteria, leading to symptoms such as redness, swelling, and pain.
Factors that can worsen acne
Beyond the underlying mechanism, there are factors that amplify the problem.
Hormonal fluctuations. Many women notice breakouts along the jawline before their period. In cases of polycystic ovary syndrome, acne can become persistent. If you suspect a hormonal cause, speak with a gynaecologist or endocrinologist.
Stress. Cortisol influences sebum production and intensifies inflammation. Stressful periods are often reflected in the skin.
Unsuitable products. A very oily foundation or a heavy cream can clog pores. If you have combination or oily skin, look for formulas from the dedicated oily skin care category.
High glycaemic index diet. Concentrated sweets and refined products can worsen acne in some people. Observe how your skin reacts and gradually adjust your diet.
Friction. Face masks, phones, or dirty brushes can irritate the skin. Regularly clean your accessories and avoid touching your face frequently.
What you can do to control acne
A skincare routine chosen according to your skin's needs plays an important role in the appearance and balance of your complexion. Acne-prone skin needs time to adapt. Results become noticeable when you track progress over a longer period. You can observe from week to week how your skin reacts. For example, you can incorporate Beauty Of Joseon products into your daily routine if their ingredients and texture suit you. Then, you can more easily track how your skin responds to those products.
Gentle yet effective cleansing
Wash your face morning and evening with a product suited to oily or combination skin. For example, Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser cleans pores and reduces excess sebum without aggressive drying. Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid (BHA), which means it penetrates inside pores and dissolves sebum build-up.
Avoid very hot water and intense rubbing. Mechanical aggression further stimulates sebum production.
Controlled exfoliation
Chemical exfoliation helps remove dead cells and prevent comedones. Choose products with AHA or BHA from the exfoliants category.
Use them 1–2 times a week, depending on your skin's tolerance. If persistent stinging or heavy flaking occurs, reduce the frequency and consult a specialist.
Serums that can complement an acne-prone skincare routine
A well-chosen serum can better support your daily routine when your skin is acne-prone. For example, Azelaic Acid Facial Serum is suitable if you're looking to minimise pores, even out the skin's appearance, and calm congested skin. Apply it after cleansing on dry skin, then follow with a moisturiser suited to your skin type. Introduce it gradually and monitor your skin's reaction over several weeks.
For regulating sebum and supporting a more balanced complexion, Zinc PCA Facial Serum can be a useful choice. This type of serum is frequently used in oily or combination skin routines, especially when pores appear congested and shine develops quickly throughout the day. It can be easily incorporated into a simple routine alongside gentle cleansing, controlled exfoliation, and appropriate hydration.
Ingredients that support skin renewal
For lasting results, gradually introduce active ingredients with proven benefits:
- Niacinamide regulates sebum production and soothes redness.
- Retinoids normalise the cell renewal process. Start with low concentrations, apply in the evening, and follow with SPF in the morning.
- Peptides and PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotides) support skin regeneration and repair after inflammatory episodes. You can find them in Korean formulas from brands like Medicube or Dr. Hedison.
- Collagen and restorative ingredients from ranges like Biodance, Pittoresco, or Dr. Althea support elasticity and the skin barrier.
Introduce one new product at a time and monitor your skin's reaction for a few weeks.
Hydration and sun protection
Even if your skin looks shiny, it still needs hydration. A lightweight cream with hyaluronic acid or ceramides keeps the skin barrier intact and reduces the risk of irritation.
Apply SPF 30 or 50 daily. UV rays can darken post-acne marks — those brown patches that remain after spots heal. You can opt for a BB cream with sun protection for light coverage and an even tone.
When is a dermatological consultation necessary?
If painful nodules or scars develop, or if acne doesn't respond to regular skincare after 8–12 weeks, book a dermatology appointment. A doctor can recommend topical or systemic treatments tailored to your situation.
Don't squeeze lesions and don't combine potent products without guidance. Inappropriate interventions can worsen inflammation and leave permanent marks.
Control acne through consistency, patience, and informed choices. Discover the right products for your skin on SKINSEEN.ro and build a routine that supports your complexion every day.
Frequently asked questions
Does acne vulgaris go away with age?
For some people, severity decreases after the age of 30. However, many women continue to experience acne episodes in adulthood, especially on a hormonal basis. An adapted routine and regular dermatological check-ups help keep breakouts under control.
Can I use retinol if I have acne?
Yes, in many cases retinol helps prevent comedones and even out the skin. Start with a low concentration, apply in the evening, and use sun protection daily. If your skin becomes very irritated, stop using it and speak with a dermatologist.
Does make-up make acne worse?
Not necessarily. Choose non-comedogenic products, clean your brushes thoroughly, and remove all make-up in the evening. Lightweight BB creams and formulas designed for combination or oily skin are, in most cases, better tolerated.
References:
1. "Adult Acne." Www.aad.org, www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/really-acne/adult-acne (accessed 17.04.2026);
2. Sutaria, Amita H, and Joel Schlessinger. "Acne Vulgaris." National Library of Medicine, StatPearls Publishing, 2023, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK459173 (accessed 17.04.2026);
3. Mayo Clinic. "Acne - Symptoms and Causes." Mayo Clinic, 20 July 2024, www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/acne/symptoms-causes/syc-20368047 (accessed 17.04.2026).
