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In recent years, ceramides have gone from being an “exotic” ingredient in dermocosmetic formulas to a central element in skincare, recommended by dermatologists and validated by clinical studies. If 10–15 years ago they barely appeared in ads, today they’re considered a core ingredient for restoring and maintaining the skin barrier — that invisible “armor” that protects our skin from dehydration, pollution, microbes, and irritants.
What are ceramides?
Ceramides have become a key ingredient in modern dermocosmetic products — and for good reason. Biologically, they are essential lipids for the structure and function of the skin. Approximately 50% of the lipid composition of the stratum corneum consists of ceramides, giving them a critical role in hydration, protection, and the integrity of the skin barrier. Ceramides are complex lipids from the sphingolipid family, naturally produced by the skin. They are found in the stratum corneum — the outermost layer of the epidermis.
Imagine the skin as a wall: dead cells (corneocytes) are the bricks, while ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids are the mortar that holds them together. Without mortar, the wall cracks and collapses. Similarly, without ceramides in the right amounts and structure, the skin becomes dry, irritated, and prone to inflammation.
Normally, the stratum corneum contains:
- ~50% ceramides (by mass);
- ~25% cholesterol;
- ~15% free fatty acids.
This physiological ratio is essential for a healthy skin barrier, which is why moisturizers with ceramides are recommended. These cosmetic products significantly improve skin hydration and barrier function, reduce symptoms of atopic dermatitis, and can increase tolerance to aggressive treatments.
A near-physiological ceramide/cholesterol/free fatty acid ratio is more effective than formulas with single ceramides. Also, the product’s pH influences the activity of enzymes that produce ceramides in the skin: the ideal range is 4.5–5.5.
The role of ceramides in the skin
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Understanding the role of ceramides in the skin is essential for choosing the right skincare products and building an effective routine tailored to each skin type’s needs. Here are the main functions of these essential lipids:
Maintaining hydration and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
Ceramides form a hydrophobic barrier that prevents excessive evaporation of water from the skin.
- direct effect: they reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and maintain the skin’s water balance;
- visible benefit: the skin remains more supple, elastic, and radiant.
Restoring the skin barrier
The skin barrier is the body’s first line of defense against external agents. Ceramides help with:
- rebuilding the lipid structure after exposure to cold, wind, UV rays, or irritants;
- shielding against pollution and pathogenic microorganisms;
- speeding up healing in dry, cracked, or inflamed areas.
Protection against irritants and allergens
Skin with a ceramide deficit allows irritant particles and allergens to penetrate more easily. By restoring optimal ceramide levels, you reduce the risk of:
- recurrent inflammation;
- cutaneous allergic reactions;
- chronic skin sensitization.
Regulating skin regeneration processes
Ceramides influence the activity of enzymes involved in keratinocyte differentiation and in forming a healthy stratum corneum. Optimal ceramide levels support:
- harmonious cell renewal;
- maintenance of a uniform stratum corneum;
- reduced excessive flaking.
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The link between ceramides and skin conditions
A ceramide deficit is associated with several dermatological conditions:
- atopic dermatitis – characterized by increased TEWL and low ceramide levels;
- psoriasis – an imbalance in the lipid composition of the skin barrier;
- skin aging – a natural decline in ceramide synthesis with age;
- sensitive skin – prone to redness, irritation, and inflammation.
Types of ceramides in cosmetics
Topical ceramide products have been shown to:
- improve skin hydration from the first applications;
- reduce TEWL within a few weeks;
- soothe itching and discomfort;
- improve tolerance to more aggressive dermatological treatments (retinoids, exfoliants).
On a product label (INCI), ceramides appear under names such as:
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ceramide NP, NS, AP, EOP, AS, NG – each with a slightly different chemical structure and specific function;
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High-performance products include blends of multiple ceramide types to mimic the skin’s natural structure. Brands like SkinClinic, Jumiso, SE:RESKIN or Medicube offer varied ranges for specific needs.
Who needs ceramides in their skincare
- people with dry or very dry skin;
- people with sensitive, redness-prone skin;
- people with conditions such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema;
- people with skin affected by irritating treatments (retinoids, acid exfoliants);
- people with mature skin (ceramide levels decrease with age).
Photo source: Canva
How to choose a product with ceramides
- read the ingredient list — look for ceramide NP, AP, EOP, etc.;
- seek the physiological combo: ceramides + cholesterol + fatty acids;
- texture — cream or ointment for winter, lotion/gel-cream for summer;
- airless packaging or an opaque tube — to protect sensitive ingredients.
How to use dermocosmetics with ceramides
Here’s how to integrate ceramides into your skincare routine:
- morning: gentle cleanse → ceramide cream → SPF;
- evening: gentle cleanse → ceramide cream (it can be the only step if the skin is irritated);
- during severe irritation: avoid exfoliants and strong actives until the barrier stabilizes.
Photo source: Shutterstock
Frequently asked questions about ceramides
If you want to better understand how ceramides work and how to add them to your routine, find answers to the most popular questions about these essential lipids and their role in skincare:
Are ceramides suitable for all skin types?
Yes. Although they’re essential for dry and sensitive skin, ceramides benefit all skin types — including oily or combination skin — because they help balance the barrier function without clogging pores.
Can I use ceramides with other active ingredients?
Yes. Ceramides pair well with retinoids, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and peptides. In fact, they can reduce irritation caused by stronger ingredients by supporting barrier repair. For example, you can combine a hyaluronic acid serum (Hyaluronic Acid Facial Serum) or a niacinamide serum (Niacinamide Facial Serum), then follow with a ceramide cream that seals in the hydration induced by the serums.
How long until I see results?
You may notice the first hydration improvements after a few applications, but full barrier recovery can take 2–4 weeks of consistent use.
How do I choose an effective ceramide product?
Check the label for ceramide types like NP, AP, EOP and make sure the product also contains cholesterol and fatty acids in proportions close to the skin’s natural balance. A pH between 4.5 and 5.5 maximizes formula efficacy.
Are there any side effects from ceramides?
Ceramides are generally very well tolerated. Adverse reactions are rare and usually caused by other excipients in the product, not by ceramides themselves.
Do ceramide levels in the skin decrease with age?
Yes. The skin’s ceramide levels start to decline with age, which contributes to dryness and fragility in mature skin.
Ceramides are not just a trendy ingredient — they’re essential for maintaining a healthy, hydrated, resilient skin barrier. By rebuilding the skin’s natural lipid structure, they help prevent dehydration, reduce irritation, and support the natural regeneration process. Whether you have dry skin, sensitive skin, or you simply want to protect your complexion from environmental factors, adding ceramide products to your daily routine is a science-backed choice.
Now is the time to step into a smarter routine! Choose ceramide creams or lotions from Skinseen that match your skin type. Use them consistently and see the difference in a few weeks. Your skin will thank you with a smoother, more hydrated, and better-protected appearance.